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Hawaiian Heritage Jewelry
Island bling has cultural significance
If you're a fan of blond pop siren Gwen Stefani, you may be aware that she has her own clothing line. Sure, it's a vanity label called L.A.M.B., but it happens to be as cute and fun as she is. Last season, the L. A. M. B. fashion show featured models wearing thick gold bangles emblazoned with black Victorian-style enamel lettering. These bracelets are familiar to anyone who grew up in Hawaii. Officially called Hawaiian Heritage Jewelry, this ornate style of gold bangles, pendants, and rings has been fashionable in the islands since the 1800s.
According to a history written by Hawaii-based jeweler Philip Rickard, the first piece was a gift from England's Queen Victoria to Hawaii's Queen Liliuokalani, the last reigning monarch of Hawaii, who wore that bracelet and others made in the same style for many of her royal portraits. Ironically, the black enamel lettering indicated that this was mourning jewelry generally worn by widows or bereaved mothers. Certainly, the Hawaiian royals had their share of grief, given that the half-million Hawaiian population had at this point been reduced to about 50,000. And given that Queen Lilliuokalanai was overthrown in an illegal coup staged by wealthy American businessmen and placed under house arrest in 1858 (while her other family treasures were pilfered by U.S. soldiers), her bracelet engraved with "hoomanao mau" or "never forget" became an even more poignant message for her and her people.
In modern times, Hawaiian Heritage Jewelry remains popular, though most regard it as a form of hip hop-inspired bling bling in the arena of Hawaii's youth-driven identity politics. The bigger your piece, the better. And since many island residents no longer have either Hawaiian names or command of the Hawaiian language, it's legitimate to have a bangle or hoop earrings engraved with your nickname, neighborhood, or motto. The classic gold with black lettering is no longer your only option: There's a stunning diversity of styles including platinum or pink or green gold, with pink, white, blue, or even green enamel lettering to help you make your most personal statement. You can also get your Christian name translated into Hawaiian, though this was an imprecise and whimsical practice created by the missionaries (i.e. Michael = Kaniela or Rachel = Leikeila). You might just want to default to the classic "kuuipo" or "sweetheart."
According to a history written by Hawaii-based jeweler Philip Rickard, the first piece was a gift from England's Queen Victoria to Hawaii's Queen Liliuokalani, the last reigning monarch of Hawaii, who wore that bracelet and others made in the same style for many of her royal portraits. Ironically, the black enamel lettering indicated that this was mourning jewelry generally worn by widows or bereaved mothers. Certainly, the Hawaiian royals had their share of grief, given that the half-million Hawaiian population had at this point been reduced to about 50,000. And given that Queen Lilliuokalanai was overthrown in an illegal coup staged by wealthy American businessmen and placed under house arrest in 1858 (while her other family treasures were pilfered by U.S. soldiers), her bracelet engraved with "hoomanao mau" or "never forget" became an even more poignant message for her and her people.
In modern times, Hawaiian Heritage Jewelry remains popular, though most regard it as a form of hip hop-inspired bling bling in the arena of Hawaii's youth-driven identity politics. The bigger your piece, the better. And since many island residents no longer have either Hawaiian names or command of the Hawaiian language, it's legitimate to have a bangle or hoop earrings engraved with your nickname, neighborhood, or motto. The classic gold with black lettering is no longer your only option: There's a stunning diversity of styles including platinum or pink or green gold, with pink, white, blue, or even green enamel lettering to help you make your most personal statement. You can also get your Christian name translated into Hawaiian, though this was an imprecise and whimsical practice created by the missionaries (i.e. Michael = Kaniela or Rachel = Leikeila). You might just want to default to the classic "kuuipo" or "sweetheart."
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