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God Save Miami
A few South Beach spots defy the degradation
South Beach was so much fun in the early and mid '90s, before walking down Ocean Drive felt like pre-hurricane Cancun – a tacky tourist strip with people hawking their wares with Third World desperation. And before it felt like spring breakers – sunburned coeds in Corona-emblazoned tube tops, sporting herpes sores and their own coolers – (previously a seasonal phenomenon) were running rampant every weekend.
There are still a few spots that defy the degeneration. The newly renovated Tides Hotel (www.tidessouthbeach.com) right on Ocean Drive is a fantastic oasis of beige calm (though stay on the upper floors). And the deco-Victorian-Parisian Hotel Victor, right next door to the old Versace mansion, Casa Casuarina, has a musical aquarium full of jellyfish and a delectable see-and-be-seen ceviche bar, called Vix.
Off Ocean Drive, The Sagamore Hotel on the cool strip of Collins Avenue also lined with the Ritz South Beach, the National and the legendary Delano, has become the place to stay (though forget about getting in during Art Basel). The great thing about the resorts on Collins above 15th Street is that they are beachfront and also near the start of Lincoln Road Mall, a yuppie hangout that still holds some of the old charm of South Beach. Folks - young, fit and fabulous - stroll or roll (on bikes, rollerblades, and skateboards) with dogs or kids, providing great people watching for those sitting at café tables along the promenade (that runs from Collins Avenue to Alton Road).
And Miami is a still a great eating town, with restaurants representing the whole Latin American diaspora: Cuban, Dominican, Argentinian, Brazilian, etc. If you like red meat, you're golden. But my new favorite place in South Beach (because that's what we are specifically talking about here) is the mod Latin Ola in the Sanctuary Hotel between 17th and 18th on James Street.
Puerto Rican chef Douglas Rodriguez, a James Beard winner and the "father of nuevo Latino cuisine," delivers exactly what you want in a SoBe eatery. First, it's totally enclosed, AC blasting to arctic chill, yet the room is decorated in red-hot burnt sienna and sunset-orange colors that gives heat and a sexy sunkissed glow to everyone and everything. And it's a loud, boisterous, passionate crowd, equal parts gay, European, and Latino. Chef Rodriguez's food is meant to be shared and that's good, because you'll want to try as many dishes as possible.
This is food you can't get everywhere (although it's rumored that Rodriguez will soon open a new restaurant in NYC's meat-packing district).
Ceviche is its own course here – start with either the hamachi margarita, a perfect balance between jalapeno, red onion, and citrus sorbet, or the escolar soaked in a brew of blood oranges, Tabasco, and cilantro leaves (both $16). Next, get a round of Uruguayan beef picadillo empanadas in a black pepper crust and served with artichoke salad ($13); tuna tacos with crispy shallots and garlic aioli ($15); and duck confit salad with Boston and purple lettuce, fava beans, radish, pinenuts, and feta cheese tossed in a guava vinaigrette ($14).
For main courses, I loved the crispy pork with honey truffled mash ($26) and the plantain-crusted mahi over oxtail stew and tomato escabeche ($29). And don't stop there. Desserts include blanco coconut tapioca with guanabana sorbet and the deconstructed key lime pie (both $10). Ola also has a Dominican cigar menu (though thankfully no one was smoking the night we were there) and a fun Passport dinner program for wannabe travelers. You get a stamp in your Ola passport for coming in each month and having the set menu with wines inspired by different Latin countries (for August and September, it's Spain).
There are still a few spots that defy the degeneration. The newly renovated Tides Hotel (www.tidessouthbeach.com) right on Ocean Drive is a fantastic oasis of beige calm (though stay on the upper floors). And the deco-Victorian-Parisian Hotel Victor, right next door to the old Versace mansion, Casa Casuarina, has a musical aquarium full of jellyfish and a delectable see-and-be-seen ceviche bar, called Vix.
Off Ocean Drive, The Sagamore Hotel on the cool strip of Collins Avenue also lined with the Ritz South Beach, the National and the legendary Delano, has become the place to stay (though forget about getting in during Art Basel). The great thing about the resorts on Collins above 15th Street is that they are beachfront and also near the start of Lincoln Road Mall, a yuppie hangout that still holds some of the old charm of South Beach. Folks - young, fit and fabulous - stroll or roll (on bikes, rollerblades, and skateboards) with dogs or kids, providing great people watching for those sitting at café tables along the promenade (that runs from Collins Avenue to Alton Road).
And Miami is a still a great eating town, with restaurants representing the whole Latin American diaspora: Cuban, Dominican, Argentinian, Brazilian, etc. If you like red meat, you're golden. But my new favorite place in South Beach (because that's what we are specifically talking about here) is the mod Latin Ola in the Sanctuary Hotel between 17th and 18th on James Street.
Puerto Rican chef Douglas Rodriguez, a James Beard winner and the "father of nuevo Latino cuisine," delivers exactly what you want in a SoBe eatery. First, it's totally enclosed, AC blasting to arctic chill, yet the room is decorated in red-hot burnt sienna and sunset-orange colors that gives heat and a sexy sunkissed glow to everyone and everything. And it's a loud, boisterous, passionate crowd, equal parts gay, European, and Latino. Chef Rodriguez's food is meant to be shared and that's good, because you'll want to try as many dishes as possible.
This is food you can't get everywhere (although it's rumored that Rodriguez will soon open a new restaurant in NYC's meat-packing district).
Ceviche is its own course here – start with either the hamachi margarita, a perfect balance between jalapeno, red onion, and citrus sorbet, or the escolar soaked in a brew of blood oranges, Tabasco, and cilantro leaves (both $16). Next, get a round of Uruguayan beef picadillo empanadas in a black pepper crust and served with artichoke salad ($13); tuna tacos with crispy shallots and garlic aioli ($15); and duck confit salad with Boston and purple lettuce, fava beans, radish, pinenuts, and feta cheese tossed in a guava vinaigrette ($14).
For main courses, I loved the crispy pork with honey truffled mash ($26) and the plantain-crusted mahi over oxtail stew and tomato escabeche ($29). And don't stop there. Desserts include blanco coconut tapioca with guanabana sorbet and the deconstructed key lime pie (both $10). Ola also has a Dominican cigar menu (though thankfully no one was smoking the night we were there) and a fun Passport dinner program for wannabe travelers. You get a stamp in your Ola passport for coming in each month and having the set menu with wines inspired by different Latin countries (for August and September, it's Spain).
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