Posts: 3

1. 

   Maryland's Chesapeake Bay Country

   09.Mar.08, 18:19 EDT
   
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   It's more than crabcakes and fried chicken...
   
   When Captain John Smith sailed into the Chesapeake Bay in 1608, he noted in his diary, "heaven and earth never agreed better to frame a place for man's habitation…truly a delightsome land." The Baltimore Sunpapers' famous sage, H.L. Mencken, went one step further and described the Chesapeake as "an immense protein factory…the world's largest bowl of oyster stew." This is still an apt description of Chesapeake Country, nearly 400 years later. This great inland sea offers endless sailing opportunities, fishing, year round recreation and a 5,600 mile shoreline that, if straightened, would reach from Baltimore to Honolulu with a few hundred miles to spare.
   
   The word Chesapeake is derived from the Native Americans who lived along her shores. They called her K'tchisipik, "Great Water."
   
   By all accounts, Italian Giovanni Verrazano was the first white man to set foot on Maryland's Eastern Shore, in 1524. Sir Walter Raleigh came along in 1585.
   
   The Chesapeake Bay separates the state of Maryland physically and culturally, just as some invisible marker divides the radically diverse cultures of Los Angeles and San Francisco. Eastern Shoremen are a breed apart and fiercely maintain their waterborne lifestyles, even to the point of dredging oysters by sail power and with tongs just as the Native Americans did centuries ago. The Chesapeake is home to America's only working sailboat fleet. Chesapeake Bay "Skipjacks" patterned after the original native craft still "dredge" oysters from the soft muddy bottom. Around 1900, there were some 1500 "arshter drudge" boats plying The Bay. Today, there are less than 30. But, those remaining are still hard at work, beginning late fall each year, scraping the bay bottom with dredges and nets. Except for two days each week, they must traverse the oyster beds while under sail power. A few of the distinctively styled raked mast Skipjacks are handbuilt each year by small shipyards that still line The Bay: mostly for the sake of tradition and pleasure.
   
   When you visit Maryland's Eastern Shore, you'll feel that time hasn't stopped here, but it surely has slowed down several ticks. Many of the towns and villages that line its shores, and those of its tributaries, are well suited to making films of the twenties and thirties with but a few changes of the storefront signage. If your taste buds don't yearn for fresh crabs, Maryland crabcakes, oysters and rockfish and locally grown farm corn, tomatoes and cantaloupes, you might as well stay home. Well, I should take that back; Maryland's fried chicken has found its way onto gourmet menus around the world
   
   If you enjoy sailing, you can spend at least a year visiting a different port every weekend. You'll spend another year trying to decide which was your favorite.
   
   There are few bodies of water more fascinating than the Chesapeake Bay. First, the sailor who journeys the channel north from the mouth at the Atlantic Ocean to it's headwaters, about 160 miles, needs never to vary his compass more than 2 degrees from true north.
   
   At its widest point, the Chesapeake is nearly ten feet higher in the middle than on either side, due to the curvature of the earth. A large freighter requires at least one foot less of water at the mouth of the Chesapeake than in Baltimore due to the salinity and buoyancy of the water. Because of the earth's rotation, water on the Eastern Shore is saltier than on the Western Shore. There are 48 rivers and more than 100 branches and tributaries flowing into The Chesapeake; they're navigable for at least 1750 miles.
   
   The entire Eastern Shore is also known as the DelMarVa Peninsula as the entirety of Delaware is situated here, and a small Atlantic portion of Virginia rests below the Maryland border.
   
   Near the top of The Bay is Baltimore, America's "renaissance city of the 80's" re-birthing herself at the water's edge from which she came originally. In addition to the nationally famous Harborplace marketplace, the waterfront is alive night and day.
   
   The National Aquarium in Baltimore, the USF Constellation, Mt. Vernon Place and the first formal monument to George Washington, the Maryland Science Center and many other museums, clubs, attractions and eateries line the harbor. Just around the bend, Fort McHenry, birthplace of the National Anthem, is a star shaped fort that repelled the British waterborne invasion during the War of 1812.
   
   Baltimore was the birthplace of the railroad in America and the B&O Railroad Museum is one of the worlds finest. Edgar Allan Poe lived, died, and is buried here in the city where so many of his significant works were written. Baltimore is a wonderfully rich city with great ethnic neighborhoods, fine dining and museums usually found in much larger cities. Oriole Park at Camden Yards is a stadium complex that will fascinate every true baseball fan. It’s located just a few blocks from the Babe Ruth Birthplace Museum.
   
   About 35 miles to the south of Baltimore lies "The Venice of America", Annapolis, home of the United States Naval Academy and more sailboats than one can tie-up for miles around on summer weekends. This Colonial Capital of America is also Maryland's State Capital. Here, George Washington resigned his commission, and history is thicker than the humidity in August. Quaint colonial homes line small brick streets that curve up the hill to the wooden domed state capitol, the oldest statehouse in continuous use. There are also Colonial mansions built by Maryland's signers of the Declaration of Independence and other significant personages of the period. It's a wonderful place to re-live history that's been re-modeled not rebuilt from the ground up.
   
   From Annapolis, you're just about 35 miles east of Washington DC; it would be a shame to be so close and not take at least 2-3 days to explore the various government buildings, national galleries, museums and of course, The Smithsonian museums can easily occupy a week of your time
   
   From Washington or Annapolis, you'll head east and cross the 7+ mile long twin-spanned Chesapeake Bay Bridge on to the flat stretches that typify Eastern Shore topography. You're never more than a few feet above sea level, and a marble placed on the highest mound here would roll but a few feet before coming to a stop. That's how flat it is! Needless to say, it's a great spot for bikers.
   
   Take a few minutes and stop at Wye Mills for some freshly ground flour. The old mill still grinds wheat, oats, rye and barley for visitors, just as it ground them for George Washington's troops at Valley Forge. Nearby, the Old Wye Church still exhibits the original box pews and silver communion service presented by English King What's His Name. The Eastern Shore is also "Michener" country. James Michener's book Chesapeake was researched and written in this neck of the woods.
   
   Your first stop should be Easton, a wonderful small town that is old and quaint; you'll keep looking for Jimmy Stewart to come out of his gingerbread house calling for his son, probably portrayed by a young Mickey Rooney. While you're in the area, take a circle tour of the small towns around the rivers and bay.
   
   Heading south, St. Michaels is known as "the town that fooled the British." During the War of 1812, after the British had burned Washington DC, their fleet sailed down the Potomac River to the Chesapeake Bay, heading for Baltimore. They intended to get rid of this "nest of pirates" who had built the famous Baltimore Clipper ships that had blockaded British commercial shipping to the West Indies. When the fleet reached the vicinity, citizens of St. Michaels expected a British bombardment, so they simply hung their lanterns in the trees outside of town. Sure enough, the British warships sent their cannonballs into the trees beyond the town. St. Michaels is a wonderful little sailing town and home of the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum. If you venture onto the peninsula, an additional 12 or so miles to Tilghman Island, you'll meet Maryland's true "watermen" who make their year round livelihoods from the water. Be certain to take the famous Bellevue-Oxford Ferry across the small channel to Oxford, home of the Robert Morris Inn. This is a former hangout of movie "bad boy" Robert Mitchum, TV's Galloping Gourmet Graham Kerr, and in later years, James Michener. The inn is an excellent spot to spend at least one night.
   
   Further south on Maryland's Route 50 you'll pass Cambridge, original home of Annie Oakley. Outside of town, the old Spocott Windmill is quite a sight to see. At one time, there were dozens of them dotting the landscape, turning in the wind, grinding grain into flour. Another 20 minute drive and you're in the heart of DelMarVa peninsula's chicken headquarters. Millions upon millions of chickens are raised here each year, most of whom never touch the ground or see real sunlight. The Ward Brothers Museum of Wildfowl Art is located here as well. If you think you've seen great decoys or carved wildfowl, stop, for you ain't seen nothin' yet!
   
   Just another 45 minutes due east and you're ready for a plunge into the Atlantic Ocean at Maryland's greatest oceanside family resort, Ocean City. There are miles and miles of motels, hotels, RV parks and places where Baltimoreans and Washingtonians head to escape the summer when temperatures and humidity both approach the 100 mark. On a busy weekend, more than 300,000 visitors will crowd the wide sandy beaches to sleep away the previous nights' party.
   
   Also on the ocean is one of my favorite places, Assateague Island. It's a National Seashore and home of the famous wild ponies (remember the movie and book Misty of Chincoteague?) that reputedly swam ashore more than 450 years ago when a Spanish galleon was wrecked during a storm.
   
   Finally, if you want to capture the "National Geographic" view of Chesapeake Country, drive another 45 minutes west to Crisfield and take a tour boat out to Smith Island Maryland (named after the good captain himself) and Tangier Island Virginia. The islands are situated in the middle of The Bay and are so close to sea level that the dead are buried above ground. The original Eastern Shore dialect "sing-song cockney" is spoken here and you may have trouble recognizing anything they say…but the hospitality's genuine.
   
   All told, you've traveled about 275 miles from Baltimore to Crisfield, enjoyed nearly 400 years of history and captured lots of "memories made in Maryland."

2. 

   Annual Buffalo Roundup In Custer South Dakota

   09.Mar.08, 18:06 EDT
   
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   Annual Buffalo Roundup In Custer South Dakota
   Tatanka Buffalo-- “big or large thing”-Lakota Sioux
   
   After a quick cup of hi-test coffee and a donut, we left the Game Lodge a few minutes before sun-up; the grass was frost covered, the leaves were red and yellow and the air was crisp and nippier than you’d expect in early October: but here in the Black Hills the weather can be unpredictable at any time of the year. We were here to witness South Dakota Governor Mike Rounds’ annual Buffalo Round-up at Custer State Park, one of the most thrilling events in the nation.
   
   It’s a sight you’ll never forget if you live to be 200. First you hear them! Then you feel the earth come to life and rumble, and finally you see them...hopefully heading in another direction. Then you taste them or at least the dust kicked up as they stampede by. Believe me, no one wants to get trampled by a herd of 2,000 pound buffalo, especially at full speed, nearly 50 miles an hour.
   
   When the first settlers landed on North American shores, there were an estimated 60 million American Bison roaming the vast open plains. They played a central role in the very existence of the Plains Indians who honored the buffalo that provided them with their daily necessities...food, clothing, shelter, and tools. The Great Plains herds were immense beyond comprehension. Thomas Farnham, traveling the Santa Fe Trail in 1839 made careful mathematical calculations of one herd he encountered along the route. He determined this herd covered more than 1,350 square miles; larger than Rhode Island! Around the end of the Civil War, the government decided the most efficient way to control and confine Native Americans onto waiting reservations was to exterminate their main food source and eliminate the American Bison. It almost succeeded. By 1889, estimates are that probably less than 100 free roaming buffalo remained in the entire US. Realizing their near extinction, the America Bison Association was formed to protect the nearly extinct animal. Today, through protection, and the creation of private herds, the America Bison is out of danger and their numbers are now estimated to be around 250,000.
   
   From the Game Lodge, we loaded into the waiting vans and headed onto the Wildlife Loop Road. Though still before 6 AM, the road was jammed with vehicles heading for choice hillside locations to watch this exciting event. A day earlier, we spent several hours surveying the herd by horseback across the very same rambling hills that George Armstrong Custer had crossed with his famous 1874 Black Hills Expedition leading to the discovery of gold in the Black Hills. Each year, the park’s free roaming herd is rounded up, penned, examined, branded, inoculated and separated. A few of the cantankerous old bulls are excluded from the roundup. Of the 1,400 or 1,500 buffalo that make their home here, the herd is thinned to about 1,000, the maximum number the parks grazing lands can sustain. The remainder are sold at auction in November, usually to ranchers to begin their own private herds. Funds from the sale cover about $250,000 of the parks operating expenses. Custer State Park consists of 71,000 pristine acres with breathtaking scenic drives where the buffalo and be viewed from the safety of your car, fishing lakes, campgrounds and complete facilities for the enjoyment of the visitors.
   
   There are even four resorts within the park with accommodations ranging from cowboy cozy to park plush. The 2006 agenda begins on Saturday September 30th, with a massive, and tummy warming, outdoor pancake breakfast, then continues with a crafts festival highlighting western entertainment and Lakota Native arts and handiwork. On Sunday, October 1st, you can fill yer belly with some of the west’s best chili...the annual cook-off competition, features about 50 of the region’s best chili chefs...just 10 cents a taste.
   
   On Monday, October 2nd the big event takes place. The park staff and some expert local riders saddle up and pre-stage the park’s herd into a pattern along the Wildlife Loop Road, if all goes well. Each group, led by park rangers is given careful safety instructions and maps. As the roundup begins the hillside, filled with onlookers are more anxious than the animals. Shouts, ear piercing whistles, waving hats and cracking whips get the huge beasts moving. The next 45 minutes or so are more exciting than a tiebreaking 7th game of the World Series and more colorful than a Super Bowl halftime show. Often a sub-herd breaks away and takes a road less traveled to the chagrin of their pursuers and the delighted cheers of the spectators. After plenty of heart thumping excitement, the buffalo are penned and the crowd gets about the business of viewing the animals, up close in the holding pens before the sorting and inoculations begin. Then, it’s lunch time. Under massive tents, good hearty cowboy food is served and the music and entertainment begins.
   
   There’s an ample supply of motel rooms in the nearby towns of Custer, Keystone and Hill City. A few years ago, we discovered the nearby French Creek B&B, a really cozy, well situated ranch, where your horses are just as welcome as you. Within an hour's drive, there’s plenty to do and see in the Black Hills. There’s Mt. Rushmore, The Crazy Horse Monument, Deadwood, Rapid City, Kevin Costner’s park, Tatanka-Tribute to the Buffalo and plenty of magnificent scenery all year round.
   
   www.custerstatepark.info   605-255-4515
   
   Lodging 1-800-658-3530
   
   Camping information 1-800-710-2267
   
   Custer Chamber of Commerce www.custersd.com 1-800-992-9818
   
   French Creek Ranch www.frenchck@gwtc.net 605-673-4790

3. 

   "Snapshots of Kenya"

   19.Feb.08, 20:35 EST
   
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   "Snapshots of Kenya"
   
   Scottsdale Tribune
   Story & Photos: Bob Willis
   
   Sunup is still a half hour away…the air is crisp and feels close to freezing, even though we're only a few degrees north of the equator. I hear soft footsteps along the jungle pathway in the distance. Then, there is a rustle at the doorway, and the unmistakable sound of a zipper. "Jambo." I respond to the greeting, "Jambo" in almost impeccable Swahili. In a moment, a face peers through the front of the tent and delivers a freshly brewed, piping hot pot of tea with biscuits on the side. This is real service. If I were up at this hour at home, I'd most likely be be having a Pepsi and some potato chips. Not being a morning person by nature, it's a little early for me, but it's easy enough to climb out of bed, plant my bare feet onto the cold wooden floor and start getting ready for the day. The hot water bottle I placed at the foot of the cot last night has long since fallen to the floor and transferred all of its heat to the rest of the tent.
   
   The tent sits on a semi-permanent wooden platform and even has a small bathroom attached to the back end. Squinting through the mesh screen, I can vaguely discern the outlines of baboons and hear their yells as they scramble through the trees, playfully urging the young ones to keep up with the group. The water runs slowly and is far colder than I'd like to whip a good lather for shaving. Well, so much for a shower now. What the hell, I'll clean up when we get back from our morning game watch. Splash on some water, brush my hair and teeth and finish dressing. Grab my camera gear, some filters, half dozen rolls of film, a couple of lenses and throw them into my vest. Plop my hat atop my head and scurry to the waiting Land Rovers. I mustn't forget to re-zip my tent and tie the zipper ends tightly. Baboons know how to undo zippers and have been trashing the tents of those folks who forget to secure them when they leave.
   
   Within minutes, we're loaded in our vehicles and beginning the search for photo opportunities. Animals are always active at first light of morning. It isn't too long before we encounter a small pride of lions polishing off a feast of zebra that began late the night before. The males have already eaten their share and have left the remains to the lionesses and their cubs. It doesn't quite seem fair, the females make the kill, then sit back and wait till the kings have eaten. In the meantime, the cubs are more interested in playing on the bones and chasing each other. We stop just a few feet away, kill the motor, pop up the top of the vehicle and quietly make our pictures. Our subjects ignore us.
   
   At the edge of a clearing, Ronnie our guide points out a small nest-like den in the underbrush. We watch quietly and soon see a slight movement in the bushes. The motion soon manifests itself as three very small lion cubs. Mom must be out hunting for breakfast. She has cautioned them to remain here until she returns. Innately, they obey. But still, we're able to click off a few frames of film.
   
   Soon, we're out on The Mara, plains filled with lush thigh-high grass, spotted with acacia trees. Hold it! Stop here! Ronnie points out a slight movement in the grass. Pretty soon we see two female cheetahs stealthily stalking some prey they've spotted about a hundred fifty yards away. Their motions are absolutely fluid. It's a real shame that a small Thompson's gazelle will give up its life this morning…but that's the law out here. Moments later the first cheetah sprints from a dead standstill to full speed while the sister still crouches in waiting. The gazelle lifts its head from the fresh grass just in time to begin a race for its life. It zigs, it zags, turns more quickly than the cat in pursuit. Too late! It rushes headlong into the path of the second cheetah. In seconds, it’s down and the cats drag their treasure under a tree and begin to feast.
   
   Ronnie points to his watch and suggest we head back to the camp for breakfast. Our adventure has taken nearly three hours, it seems like far less. When we return to camp, we head back to our tents and begin freshening up. It doesn't take long, because an appetite out here can appear every few hours. We gather back at the larger dining tent and head down the buffet line filled with eggs, bacon, cereals, muffins, coffee, tea and fresh fruit.
   
   Ronnie is a native Kenyan, born of British parents. He speaks Kings' English and Swahili with equal ease. This morning he is one of the first in line for breakfast. You see, Ronnie loves muffins slathered high with orange marmalade. On many mornings, he returns too late for breakfast and misses out on the baked goods. Our conversations stop.
   
   We all watch cautiously as a bachelor male elephant grazes within sixty yards or so of the camp. He wanders closer and closer but still pays no attention to us. We pay plenty of attention to him. At one point, he must catch a whiff of breakfast and ambles to the edge of the camp. Using a good measure of discretion, we gather our plates and cups and head under the tent. Ronnie continues to sit at the table savoring his Earl Grey tea and a plate full of muffins. Within a minute or so, it seems as if the elephant has taken a decided interest in our food and heads directly for Ronnie, alone at his table. When he is within 20 yards or so, Ronnie too grabs his teacup and follows us to the tent. The young elephant heads right to the table, and messily devours most of the food in sight, including Ronnie's muffins. After he finishes, simply ambles into the thicket on the far side of the camp. Well, that's life out here, survival of the largest and hungriest.
   
   This may not be a typical day on photo safari in Kenya, but each day is a new experience! When you first begin your adventure, you'll excitedly point out every termite mound, zebra, ostrich, giraffe and monkey and shoot far too much film. By day two, you'll have begun conserving batteries and film. Soon, you'll be holding out for only the award winning photos.
   
   On one occasion, I spotted a large cloud of smoke or dust on the horizon and drove to investigate. We were amazed to find a herd of 274 elephants (we were too busy, but our driver counted) heading toward Mt. Kilamanjaro. Old "tuskers", young bulls, cows and lots of young ones were taking their time, ambling and grazing as they headed for water. In the ensuing 15 or so minutes, I consumed more than a dozen rolls of film.
   
   A few days later we decided to celebrate a birthday and ask the camp cook if he can do something special. He smiles broadly and indicates that he can indeed whip up something very special. That evening, he's prepared a near formal dinner on a nearby riverbank. Bright lanterns hang in the trees and long tables covered in white linen complete an elegant setting. Below in the river, nearly 40 hippos wait impatiently for dusk, hoping to graze on the tender grass at our dinner site. An armed guard is posted to keep them off the path. Halfway through dinner, we’re suddenly interrupted by 10 or so fully costumed natives with spears held high. Then, to break the suspense, they laughingly break into chants and dance around the birthday boy. It was quite a night. That’s a 50th birthday party he’s unlikely to forget. Later, after the festivities, as we fold down the tables, we hear the sounds of impatient hippos on the path below.
   
   Minutes later, we're in the vehicles heading back to camp. In a small thicket, we can plainly hear a whimpering sound. With the aid of our headlights, we discover a small baby elephant that Ronnie declares is just few weeks old. Apparently it didn't keep up with the rest of the herd as it grazed through the area. Though it's very unusual for a mother to forget her little one, in this case, she was probably busy grazing and didn't miss the little straggler. It seemed so small that we felt for certain that it would be an easy target tonight. Someone suggested that we lead it back to camp and try to find mom tomorrow. But, rationale prevailed and we left the little one there. There's a happy ending to this story. The next morning on our sunup drive, we saw the little guy (or girl) and its mom reunited.
   
   Getting the photos you'd like
   Many years ago, the Masai people were especially cautious of having their pictures taken…that is until the Polaroid camera came along. Once they saw their images, they were less skeptical of losing their spirits to the camera. Now, they know that posing for a picture is worth a buck or two. Let me share a tip with you. Track down some of the new gold dollar coins or some JFK half dollar pieces. They're relatively rare outside the US and work very well for trading and even the exchange rate over paper currency. As far as kids are concerned, I found a long time ago that Frisbees make wonderful negotiating tools…they don't break, wear out or require batteries. Give the village kids one of these flying discs and you can photograph them at play for hours. After they tire of them, the adults and elders have their fun with them. Inexpensive harmonicas can be traded for lots of local arts and crafts too. Another favorite gift are small plastic bottles of bubbles. You know the kind with the small wand that you dip into the solution, then blow across it to produce multi-colored bubbles that float in the air until they sink and burst.
   
   As far as photos and film, that's what safaris are all about! By all means take about three times the amount of film you expect to use. It's light in weight and, believe me, it's much more reasonably priced at home. Your best photos will inevitably be those that are taken with a telephoto lens. If you use a 35 mm camera, I'd suggest at least a 300mm lens and medium fast film. Most of your shooting will be done from the pop-top of your vehicle. A small tripod or even a bean bag will assist in eliminating camera shake and vibration. Carry a few extra sets of batteries, canned air for blowing dust off of lenses, and plastic food bags for keeping your cameras dry and dust free.
   
   If you're shooting videos or digital images, carry plenty of extra batteries as digitals consume them with ferocity. Many tented camps can accommodate battery chargers, but you'll probably understimate the amount of shooting you'll do on any given morning.
   
   Life In Camp
   The tented camps of Kenya and other east African countries are certainly comfortable enough; though some are better equipped than others. Semi-permanent tents are square sided with pitched roofs. The front ends can be opened fully or zipped and tied shut when you leave camp or are sleeping. There is room inside for both inhabitants to stand. Most have wooden floors and are raised a few feet off the earth. There's usually a little patio in front with casual chairs or benches for mid-afternoon reading and snoozing. Most are lighted with propane gas lamps. Décor usually includes two small rustic dressers, a small bed or upscale cot, a couple of chairs, a small writing table and often a bathroom with a shower at the back end.
   
   Within a short walking distance is usually a larger dining tent and a campfire area for after-dinner and late night conversations. A few camps are situated near watering holes that are lighted at night. It's especially interesting to watch, from a concealed shelter, the various animals coming in after dark, to drink and bathe. Some camps are situated in the forested areas where animals are more likely to be found. Occasionally, you'll need to be escorted back to your tent by armed guard late at night.
   
   Almost every night you'll be awakened by the sounds of animals---calling, howling, yelling, playing, or just fussing. Don't worry; you're safe! The native camp attendants are well prepared for any eventuality…and that very rarely includes chasing animals from the campsite.
   
   During the day, between game runs, you may just want to grab a nap, write some letters, make notes in your journal, wander around the camp or just share your experiences with others. Most camps have a tented or covered area with small tables for games and a bar set-up and many have a few old books to read.
   Some of the upscale camps now offer hot air balloon trips at sunrise. They're pretty expensive, but if you've never taken one, this is a great first experience. The balloons usually fly at little more than treetop height. In many cases, you'll be able to reach down and grab a handful of leaves as you float past. Imagine, by the dawn's early light, watching from above, elephants at a river drinking and bathing as the little ones splash one another and cavort in the water. Perhaps the gentle morning breezes will carry you above some giraffes munching from the top branches of trees just a few feet below. Or, you may drift slowly above a river and see the giant crocs maneuvering for a sunny position. The woosshhing sound of the burning propane startles the animals and they look up to smile for your waiting camera.
   * * * *
   It's always a good idea to include a touch of civility in your photo safari and it's hard to beat the Mt. Kenya Safari Club at Nanyuki. Most rooms face Mt Kenya, occasionally popping through the distant clouds, right on the equator. Gentlemen here, are expected to wear jackets and ties at meals. After dinner, when you return to your room, the personnel have carefully laid a fire in your bedroom fireplace, awaiting the touch of a match.
   
   My personal past experiences have been with Abercrombie and Kent, one of Africa's premier safari operators. They offer a wide variety of upscale adventure tours throughout the year and, depending upon your particular interests, can create custom packages. They also have access to some private lands and camps that are not available to other operators. Suffice it to say that they are topnotch.
   British Airways offers direct daily service from Phoenix Sky Harbor Airport to London's Gatwick Airport, and direct service from London to Nairobi. I suggest at least one night in London before heading through to Nairobi in order to catch up on your time zones.
   
   In Nairobi, you'll probably take another night in first class accommodations, where you'll meet your guide and get a pre-safari briefing. There are three sites in Nairobi that are well worth your time. First, you must visit the National Museum housing many of the priceless treasures of pre-historic life uncovered by the famed Dr. Louis Leakey and his son Richard. On my last visit, the museum contained the skull of "Lucy" described as the oldest humanlike being ever found. In the section of town named for her (Karen), it's worth the time to visit the home of Karen Blixen, "Out Of Africa." The home is much smaller than the one used by Sydney Pollack in his film. Finally, if you can make the arrangements, an overnight at Giraffe Manor is always pleasant. From the quaint dining room, successors to the famous "Daisy Rothschild" will stretch their long necks through the windows, greeting guests at breakfast. You may have seen the story of Betty Leslie Melville on National Geographic specials: she rescued and re-located scores of giraffes to safer locations in the wild.
   
   Many photo safaris end in Mombasa on the coast of the Indian Ocean. It's Kenya's second largest town and has been in existence for more than ten centuries. It's a little shopworn and the town is filled to the brim with streetside merchants, traders and pickpockets. If you decide to wander into town, through the waterfront, marketplace or Fort Jesus, keep jewelry at a minimum and cash securely tucked away.
   
   The Carvers Village here is a government subsidized co-op where scores of wood craftsmen work endlessly, creating all manners of wood products, sold at the central warehouse. In the harbor, you can watch the dhows being loaded and unloaded by hand. Many of the sail driven boats look as if they existed since biblical days. Chances are, they're bringing in spices and taking cargo to nearby Zanzibar. It's tough to slow down and bask on the beaches at the secure hotels and resorts along the beach. But, believe me, you'll need the time to recuperate and restore some energy for your trip home.