Beneath elaborate bronze wall lights, ornate chandeliers, marble columns, and shimmering silk curtains lies the luxurious restaurant at The Ritz.

Two gleaming gold figures, The Thames and the Ocean, overlook a dining room brimming with glittering opulence and original Louis XVI style. Panelled mirrors adorn the north wall from painted ceiling to the floor, and a garden terrace seeps onto the lush fringes of neighbouring Green Park.

Ever since César Ritz opened the doors of his hotel in 1906 the mere name of this venerable institution has become synonymous with unparalleled sophistication. Virgin visitors need not feel disgruntled by the imposing men in buttoned-up suits at the entrance, scanning guests for signs of the denim-clad or casually-contaminated. Once inside anyone can appreciate the unique atmosphere of formality, where male diners are requested to wear a dinner jacket and tie making for a traditionally glamorous experience.

The reception is surprisingly warm without an air of stuffiness as staff usher my dinner date and I through the lavish lobby, past the Rivoli Bar, the Palm Court tea room (where cucumber sandwiches are rumoured to fetch £10.00 a pop) and into the palatial Ritz restaurant.

There convenes, not a clique of the socially elite but, a variety of clientele from the requisite genteel older gentlemen in suits to the ladies who lunch.

We toast our ostentatious surroundings with a crisp glass of bubbly and admire the equally sumptuous menu.

Before you can say “entrée” I opt for the tantalising nage of scallops and Dublin Bay prawns with lemon verbena, while my companion chooses the terrine of foie gras with citrus confiture, sauternes jelly and toasted brioche. The succulent scallops are cooked to perfection and the foie gras is rich with flavour. The efficient waiter selects a suitable wine to complement each dish, and presents me with a refreshing 2004 Villa Mura Pinot Grigio, while my partner enjoys the1995 Baronne Mathilde Sauternes.

Like kids in a candy shop we feast our eyes upon the celestial selection of main courses beckoning us from the menu: butter poached Cornish lobster with new season almonds, or tournedos of Aberdeen angus rossini. It's a close call but in keeping with the seafood theme I take a chance on the roast fillet of wild seabass with caramelised squid and chorizo, veloute of garden peas and broad beans.

It arrives, presented on a bed of creamy garlic mashed potatoes, accompanied by a full-bodied 2002 Villa Maria Reserve New Zealand Chardonnay which has an aromatic nose of ripe exotic fruits.

Heaven on a plate.

My companion tucks into the tender fillet of lamb with liquorice and fennel scented jus, aptly topped off with a glass of the 2002 Spanish Vina Real Rioja Crianza.

It's an enriching experience for all of the senses, which expands both our minds and our waistlines.

Fine dining at its most decadent.

By Abbey Stirling/MOLI