Understated and unpretentious in its furnishings, garnished with coffee and cream décor, Salt Yard is as edible as its menu. There's the odd decorative flourish, but despite its simple elegance and buzzing atmosphere, this Fitzrovian eatery is pleasantly subdued. On a midday Monday, the street-level restaurant is lively but not cramped. Being within a short walk from Goodge Street station, we are conveniently located for a West End lunch.

Now approaching its third birthday, Salt Yard has developed an extensive tapas spread of classic favourites and signature dishes. Expect taste-bud titillation from the modern Mediterranean menu, which offers an extensive selection of cheese boards and sherries. In keeping with the times, the bill of fare boasts an impressive assortment of vegetarian delights, including braised Jerusalem artichokes and sautéed Pink Fir potatoes with Savoy cabbage and truffle salsa; and pumpkin gnudi (like gnocchi, I'm told, but with ricotta instead of potato) with brown sage butter.

A light starter of spicy piquillo peppers, wafer-thin Parma ham, and tasty anchovy bruschetta is washed down with a glass of refreshing La Gitana sherry. My dinner date and I indulge in the traditional tapas experience and order a medley of plates from which we share. We tuck into tuna carpaccio with baby broad beans and salsa verde. The tuna is melt-in-your-mouth tender and the crispy squid with chickpea purée is cooked to perfection.

Confit of 'Gloucester Old Spot' pork belly is a firm favourite for my carnivorous colleague, while I enjoy a substantial serving of the succulent chargrilled salmon with salsify, lentils and cavolo nero sauce. Cavolo nero, a current trend on the culinary scene, is better known as Black Brassica or Palm Tree Cabbage and complements the salmon perfectly.

Cima de Rapa (tender sprouting broccoli) with buffalo mozzarella, polenta croutons, and bagna caoda (literally "hot sauce") scores top marks, but in a league of its own is the delectable courgette flowers stuffed with Monte Enebro cheese. Drizzled with honey, it is the perfect combination of sweet and savoury: a crisp, outer courgette crust and a creamy cheese centre. All of which is aptly polished off with a glass of Albarino 2003, a dry white wine with a concentrated floral nose and delicate fruit flavour recommended by the staff.

Never one to overlook dessert, I battle my calorie-conscious conscience and skip the naughty treats (calasparra rice pudding brulée with rhubarb ice cream; soft chocolate cake with Frangelico ice cream) in favour of a hip-friendly sorbet: blood orange and Campari with pear sorbet and a chocolate brandy snap. Light, refreshing, and guilt-free. Salt Yard's mélange of Spanish and Italian flavours can't be faulted.

By Abbey Stirling/MOLI