Light intersects corridors, and ambles about the sprawling courtyards of stone ruins, and twisting trees. It descends from above and beyond the towering jungle onto the central shrine, and from somewhere the high-pitched sound of what can only be some kind of frog or bird pierces the air.

Eclipsed by the hot sun, Ta Prohm is hidden beneath a dense rainforest canopy, a temple ravaged by weather, war, and looters. The overgrown forest embraces the ruins with tangled roots, and knotted limbs. The beauty of this scene is astounding. Daylight filters through the leaves cloaking Ta Prohm in a green pall. Thankfully Cambodia opened its doors to foreigners again in 1998, because to step for a short while into a realm of such grandeur, such unrestrained power that the mind and soul are intoxicated with inspiration, is an experience one cannot miss.

Ta Prohm is one of 100 or so temples of Angkor, the spiritual and cultural core of the Kingdom of Cambodia. It is probably more recognisable to some as the temple in Lara Croft’s fantasy flick Tombraider. But apart from being a film prop it is one of humankinds most astonishing and enduring architectural achievements.

Experiencing something of a revival, Cambodia is at the forefront of any globe-trotters calendar, and is the place to be in Asia right now. No longer Asia’s best kept secret the country in the heart of Indochina has something unique that none of its neighbours (Thailand, Laos, and Vietnam) can rival. But as well as being home to one of the structural wonders of the world, Cambodia has so much more to offer. There are long empty beaches of fringed palms and squeaky white sand, the lively capital Phnom Penh, the mighty Mekong River, and the people. Khmers have endured years of civil war and political unrest, but still manage to be as happy and hospitable as one could wish their hosts to be.

The main base from which to see Angkor is Siem Reap, a small colonial town just north of Southeast Asia’s largest lake, Tonle Sap. There are two ways to get to Siem Reap: drive or fly. Now anyone with experience of Cambodia’s er…roads, would recommend the latter. Picture the most pothole-ridden BMX track you can imagine, times that by 100, and envisage enduring an 11 hour journey across its sunken trenches in 30 degree (celsius) heat. The threat of (up to six million) landmines along roadsides and off the beaten track pose a danger when desperate for a toilet stop, so when in doubt, fly out.

After Angkor was abandoned in the mid 15th century, Phnom Penh became the capital of Cambodia. Founded alongside the Tonle Sap and Bassac rivers, you’ll find it by heading south along the shabby roads and long stretches of haphazardly sown paddy. In Phnom Penh anything goes, and you can always find something to satisfy your idea of a good time. This is a city of extremes and excess, where even crossing the road can be an exhilarating experience.

If you’re so inclined make a trip to Happy Herb’s Italian pizzeria in the centre of town, where you can order a ‘happy’ marijuana pizza, and spend the days in a Cambodian haze. Raw and edgy it’s not everyone’s cup of tea, but you can’t help but be captivated by the city’s craziness. 

Crumbling colonial French architecture is reminiscent of the streets of Cuba; decaying, reaping in history, and full of character. The mighty Mekong River makes its presence known. It spills through the city creating a scenic route laden with lively nightlife, and a boulevard of sprawling restaurants. You can stay in a guest house over looking the beautiful lake which hosts some mind-blowing sunsets. Visit markets, the historic Killing Fields or the Royal Palace. Chaotic and charismatic, Phnom Penh is where the action’s at.

Sihanoukville on the other hand is serene and subdued. Just two hours drive south of bustling Phnom Penh, this seaside town is popular on weekends with visitors from the big smoke. Not as developed as neighbouring Thailand's beaches, Sihanoukville is the perfect escape during the week when you can still have pretty much a whole coastline to yourself.

Cambodia has tremendous potential as a travel destination, and now is the perfect time to witness this re-birth of a 13 million strong nation before it becomes just another stop on the Asian circuit. 390,000 tourists ventured into the country in the first six months of 2002, a 25 percent increase on the number recorded the previous year.

You can spend the days delightfully getting lost in Angkor Wat, taking in the thousands of statues, and bas relief carvings, and finding your way through its labyrinthine passageways. Baby monkeys and their parents play on either side of the roads: a whirlpool of mopeds, tuk tuks, and Toyota Camry’s. Everything you’ve learnt about road safety goes out the window. You’re surrounded by children selling their wares: crisp cockroaches, and charcoaled Tarantulas. There is a sense of calm. Buddha is everywhere, watching over, and the people celebrate his presence with the offering of incense. In a country that was once disowned by the rest of the world, and cut off from most international aid and support, there is now a feeling of unmistakable optimism in the air. 

By Abbey Stirling/MOLI