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2008
January
- 01/29/08 Sydney's Little Sis'
- 01/23/08 Tokyo: Zen & Mayhem
- 01/18/08 Havana: Crumbling Character & Classic Cars
- 01/15/08 Heights of the Himalaya
- 01/13/08 India: From Gorakhpur to Goa
2007
January
Posts: 8
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Magical Middle Earth
17.Mar.08, 12:03 EDT
Save for a few (million) sheep dotted over the rolling hills and baron tussock grasslands, you’d be forgiven for thinking this is Middle Earth: snow-capped mountains, majestic waterfalls, pristine lakes, snaking glaciers (but not an Orc in sight).
If you’re a globe-trotter inspired to travel Down Under by the scenery from the Lord of the Rings movies, you won’t be disappointed. New Zealand’s diverse - and sometimes extreme - landscapes make it the one place in the world that Tolkien's epic masterpiece could come to life.
But the country also known as Aotearoa (“the land of the long white cloud”) has some stories of its own. Legend has it a Maori warrior called Maui managed to, among other things, harness the sun and make the days longer. His biggest claim to fame however was his capture of an immense fish which became the North Island of New Zealand, called Te Ika a Maui (The Fish of Maui). Maori believe the far north to be the tail of the fish and Wellington Harbour the mouth. The South Island was his canoe: Te Waka a Maui (The Canoe of Maui), and Stewart Island (Rakiura) his anchor. Lake Taupo, the country’s largest lake, is thought to be formed by the perforation from Maui’s magic fish hook.
One of the most isolated countries on the globe, New Zealand seems more “edge of the earth” than Middle Earth. But that’s the price you pay for being young and beautiful. Surrounded by uninhabited islands, its nearest neighbour, Australia, is 990 miles away.
Yes it is a young country, technically, but the Southern Alps bear testimony to the powerful geological forces that have been shaping this small place for the last 600 million years, since it was a piece in the puzzle of the once super continent: Gondwanaland.
Now, due to the quantity of geothermal activity, there are numerous thermal pools dotted throughout the country, which makes for some great relaxation after an action-packed day. Geysers explode, erupting boiling mud over steaming cauldrons of natural spring. Deeper still the rims of two massive tectonic plates of the Earth’s crust collide. Some of the largest trees in the world tower over an isolated land. And making their way through dense virgin rainforest are flightless birds, lizards, giant snails, primitive frogs, and a living dinosaur called Tuatara.
From the incredible peaks of The Remarkables, to the glistening expanse of the Tasman Glacier, travelers to these far shores will have the opportunity to experience a landscape that has barely altered in 15,000 years.
In the North Island the most astounding scenery has volcanic origins. Rotorua and Taupo are highly active geothermal areas. Take a spade to the Coromandel and dig your own spa on the beach and hot water will bubble up through the sand from a subterranean spring.
Head to the South Island where it’s greener, leaner, slower paced (arguably more picturesque), and host to the highest mountain in Australasia (Mount Cook). There’s the primordial wildness of the West Coast, the serenity of the 'big sky' farming country of Southland, and the beautiful beaches of Nelson.
The meteoric rise of the wine industry has meant remarkable success for New Zealand in recent years, with the country producing some of the finest Sauvignon Blanc in the world. Paying a social call to one of the copious vineyards should be included in even the most whirlwind tour of New Zealand. The long growing season and temperate maritime climate makes conditions ideal for breeding the perfect grape, producing some highly distinctive, premium quality whites.
When it comes to thrill-seeking in New Zealand nothing’s off limits. The vast open spaces, rugged landscapes, gorgeous beaches, and thunderous surf make it an adrenaline junkie’s paradise. Daredevils continue to pioneer more thrilling sports for visitors, whether it be jet-boating, bungy-jumping, mountain biking, tramping (hiking), caving or kayaking. And what makes New Zealand such a hot spot is that it’s compact enough to make all of these diverse landscapes, environments, and ecosystems so accessible.
By Abbey Stirling/MOLI -
Winter Wonderland
11.Feb.08, 05:04 EST
Maple syrup, ice hockey, and Shania Twain have put Canada on the map, but the country’s stunning landscape is what impressed me most. In a land mass of mammoth proportions, where to start? Well, just off the mainland’s west coast, Vancouver Island is as good a place as any.
Whether you’re yearning for the solitude of a snow-capped peak or a surf-swept beach, you can have it all in a short ferry ride from the heart of Vancouver. The Harbour Links service departs the city regularly and reaches the island in just over an hour (weather permitting). But if you fancy some traditional clam chowder soup along the way then the BC Ferries option is definitely worth the extra journey time.
Victoria, the island’s largest city, is a mix of the quaint and historical with a melange of shopping, dining, and energy. There’s plenty to do here, with the monstrous IMAX cinema and the Royal British Columbia Museum on hand to keep visitors of all ages entertained.
If you head inland by train you can wind your way over the Malahat Mountains to the endless beaches and parks of the north. The views are simply stunning. Nature has blessed the Vancouver Island region with natural beauty, and its residents enjoy a relaxed, earthy, counter-culture lifestyle.
Just off the coast a skull and cross bones stick out of the snow-peaked shanty of number ten Pirates Lane. Bob Marley, nose pressed against pane, keeps watch at ground level in his red, yellow and green entirety.
A customary golf buggy, parked up outside, is ready to manoeuvre the vacant street leading to Captain Morgan’s Boulevard, Smugglers Beach, and eventually Long John Silver Bay.
No this isn’t Reggae Pirates of the North Pacific. This is Protection Island, and it’s a white-out.
The cool season in Canada’s not a time to batten down the hatches and retreat into hibernation. And here, just off the coast of Vancouver Island, golf buggies rule.
This bohemian mosaic of 360 properties, beaches, and greenery interwoven by roadways of a thematic nature remains void of any heavy traffic. Instead the odd bicycle tyre, foot, or paw leaves its impression in the snow blanketing this tranquil hideaway which, with a brisk pace, can be covered on foot in 40 minutes.
Sandwiched between Canada’s mainland and Vancouver Island, Protection Island is located less than a mile from downtown Nanaimo, its nearest city via boat. So close to a major centre, and yet a world apart, this serene island community offers the best of both worlds. It has nine parks, spectacular beaches, and its claim to fame: the first floating pub in Canada which is cluttered with kitsch memorabilia and graffitied bank notes from around the world.
Across the Georgia Straight, surrounded by water on three sides and flanked by abrupt mountain ranges sits Canada’s coolest city: Vancouver.
Vancouver’s LA-esque streets provide the perfect backdrop for the thriving film industry, and it’s not unusual to stumble across an American film crew. A fully computerised light-rail Sky Train system circumnavigates the city every few minutes. You can stop at various stops en route the 28km loop like cultural hot spot Granville Island or hip arts hub Commercial Drive. ‘The Drive’ as it’s affectionately known by locals, is a colourful Italian-influenced stretch with a myriad of bars, restaurants, and cafes and some cosy little organic haunts.
Vibrant shopping district Robson Street has an eclectic mix of chic boutiques and high-end retailers, while a completely different scene can be found in Gas Town, where old traditional architecture is dominant. Different again is Stanley Park, one of more than 180 city parks in Vancouver with an evergreen oasis of 1,000 acres close to the heart of the downtown core.
A mere 20 minutes from central Vancouver via the Lions Gate Bridge and the Skyride gondola towers twinkling Grouse Mountain. A hot spot with a chill factor and a playground for winter sports fanatics, Grouse has wicked summit views of the city with slopes open day and night, all overlooking the urban jungle just below.
But if it’s night life, and mighty peaks you seek Whistler is your winter paradise. Just two hours north of Vancouver along the Sea-to-Sky Highway this world-famous, top ranked ski resort draws adrenaline junkies from around the world. Being there feels like you’ve arrived at some kinda surfer dude convention, surrounded by scruffy 20-something skater/snowboard kids with jeans around their ankles and too much attitude. But it’s a hell of a lot of fun no matter how old you are, on or off the slopes.
Although acclaimed for its winter events, Whistler is a year round destination, with festivals, fun and frolics for every season. It has everything a cosmopolitan city has to offer, while feeling like a true mountain getaway, and as Vancouver's partner city for the 2010 Winter Olympics it’s bound to gain even greater recognition.
By Abbey Stirling/MOLI -
Sydney's Little Sis'
29.Jan.08, 07:05 EST
Don’t be deterred by the annoying accent. Australia’s a pretty loveable place if you disregard the whining nasal Aussie drawl. And it’s not all about kangaroos, crocs, cork hats and Vegemite. Dig a little deeper and you’ll find that Australia’s second city is a cosmopolitan, cultivated haven for the avant-garde. Really!
With a non-stop agenda of film and food festivals, post-modern architecture, exhibitions and extravaganzas, it’s hardly surprising Melbourne’s the cultural capital of Australia.
Much unlike its arch rival (a more money-orientated) Sydney, Melbourne is a style-setting megalopolises of healthy hedonism and high art. Syders certainly outnumbers its fellow municipally in quantity, but it’s no match for the quality that is to be found in Melbourne.
From the high-octane excitement of the Australian Grand Prix to the Melbourne International Comedy, Fringe, and Arts Festivals, and the three-week-long gay and lesbian Midsummer Festival, Melbourne is one of the world’s most livable cities.
In the last 10 years Melbourne has undergone something of a renaissance, and nowhere more so than urban playground St Kilda. Once a seaside resort for its genteel inhabitants, the suburb fell out of favour in the ‘70s, taking on a seedier edge as the red-light district of the city.
Today the foreshore has been transformed into a spruced-up site for swanky waterside socialising. An eclectic mix of hip boutiques, continental cake shops, restaurants, and bars are concentrated in vibrant Fitzroy and Acland Streets, watched over by the famous fairground face of Luna Park.
Downtown Federation Square opened in October 2002, and its development was one of the most complex and ambitious construction projects ever undertaken in Australia. Standing in the heart of central Melbourne and linking the city centre with the great Yarra River, Federation Square fuses art and hospitality embraced by 21st century cutting edge architecture.
The Square's expensively expansive desert-toned plaza affords commanding views of the riverside and cityscape, where new perspectives of the city can be seen through the gallery’s glass matrix.
Across the square you’ll find the first exhibit of its kind in the world: the Australian Centre for the Moving Image, dedicated to the motion picture in all its forms – from early cinema to the latest digital media. This state-of-the-art facility houses two multi-format cinemas and the world’s largest dedicated subterranean screen gallery across four levels.
Hop on to one of the classic green-and-yellow trams and you’ll experience a different vibe altogether. North of the CBD (Central Business District) is Fitzroy, once the working-class heart of Melbourne and now a magnet for shoppers, drinkers, and café dwellers.
Here you’ll find a myriad of traditional eating houses, hip bars, and alternative coffee shops lining the alleys and Victorian-era arcades off the main streets of Brunswick and Smith. Laneways are filled with art galleries, design outlets, and fashion boutiques showcasing the innovation and skill of Melbourne-based artists and designers, whether you’re searching for haute couture or vintage.
Perhaps the most magnificent of its kind in the world, Melbourne's Royal Botanic Gardens are one of the highlights of the city. Elegant expanses of lush lawn slope towards ornamental lakes graced by elegant black swans and waterfowl. Massive trees cast boughs of shade over hidden sculptures and regular al fresco theatre productions on 38 hectares of manicured garden beds.
Something of an institution, uptown Victoria Market has served everything from imported gourmet food to exotic Australian fruit to locals for 120 years. One thousand stalls are spread out over seven hectares to create the largest open-air market in the southern hemisphere. This bargain-hunter’s delight has a vibrant atmosphere of shoppers, buskers, and sellers permeated by the aroma of fresh fruit and veg.
For the youngest city of its size in the world Melbourne more than holds its own when it comes to wining and dining. A melting pot of cultures and a microcosmos of restaurants, cafes, bistros, and bars offer a smorgasbord of the world’s cuisines. Thanks to long established Chinese, Italian and Greek communities you can splendour in the atmospherically decorated Little Bourke Street at the spine of the Chinatown precinct, go Italian on Lygon Street, or enjoy The Antipodes Festival in March which hosts the world’s largest Greek Festival.
If the chardonnay-swigging chaotic café culture is all too much to bear, venture outside the high-rise jungle to the regional areas of Victoria State. The area proffers dramatic coastal vistas, outback wilderness, vineyards, rugged peaks, and wildlife. The Great Ocean Road has some of the best surf in the world, bettering the breaks of any of Sydney’s ninety or so beaches. And when you’re out riding the waves there’s not an Aussie accent to be heard.
By Abbey Stirling/MOLI -
Tokyo: Zen & Mayhem
23.Jan.08, 11:38 EST
In many ways Tokyo is like some kinda urban nightmare.
The complex cityscape is laced with blinding neon and rampant development. Mighty spaghetti highways are clogged with bumper-to-bumper traffic and appalling pollution, surrounding a conglomeration of buildings packed with twelve million people.
Yet behind the chaos this perplexing city is something of a modern day utopia. The crime rate is famously low, while spotlessly clean trains run on time. You won’t find a spot of vandalism on the 24-hour vending machines, or an attempt at dodging the transport system (in fact they give you a chance to redeem yourself at fare adjustment machines) even though the ticket turnstiles are only knee-high (London take note).
A population of bicycles - to match even Holland - don’t need locking, simply because none get stolen. And even the homeless maintain their pride and dignity - neatly placing their shoes, in traditional fashion, next to their makeshift beds.
Tokyo has soul and, with almost the same population as London, could really teach our capital a thing or two about cleanliness and common courtesy.
From its establishment in 1603 Tokyo prospered as a castle town named Edo. By the 18th century it was the largest city in the world, with a population of over a million, exceeding even London's.
The lifestyle of the people of Edo was rich and colorful, but after mass destruction from an earthquake in 1923 the city had to be almost entirely rebuilt. What was once Edo Castle now stands as the Imperial Palace after the original structure was destroyed by US air raids in World War Two.
The Japanese emperor still resides at Imperial Palace, and tourists can view the grounds. Provided it’s on either New Year's Day or 23rd December (the Emperor's birthday).
Virgin visitors to this metropolis should be prepared for a hefty attack on the senses. Merely walking the streets of this super-charged city can be an energising experience as the train system can seem a little daunting at first. But while the subway may initially seem like a messy mesh of underground confusion, it emerges as one of the most efficient transport systems in the world. And you won’t find graffiti, rats, or rubbish on these tracks.
The Yamanote loop line runs almost non-stop at peak hours circling the major attractions of the city and passing through most of its bustling hubs, each with its own specialty: Roppongi for night life, Akihabara for electronics, Ueno for cheap eats (Ameyoko Shopping Street is reminiscent of Camden Market), Ikebukuro for department stores, and Ginza for fashion. Here you’ll discover the Sony building which has enough gizmos to excite even the amateur cyberjunky - but be prepared: this town is expensive.
Shinjuku boasts the busiest station in the world with over 700 thousand people boarding trains daily; and Shibuya, with its predominantly teenage populace, represents Japan’s weird (and slightly concerning) fascination with schoolgirls in barely-clad uniforms.
If it’s food you’re craving Tokyo caters for just about every palate and wallet. With over 100,000 eateries the city has the typical conveyor-belt sushi shops and traditional floor-seated restaurants. There’s everything from Mexican to McDonald’s, the recognisable to the bizarre. Cafes offering set meals (Shokudo) are the most sensible option for budget travelers, where some pretty realistic looking plastic replicas of the menu are often displayed (helpful for those faced with a language barrier!). Just remember: open and pour other people’s drinks for them, tipping is not expected, and cash is king.
Tokyo’s technology never sleeps, and computerised systems keep the city functioning smoothly and orderly. But in spite of its uncompromising urban veneer and high-tech efficiency, Tokyo has a free spirit.
Step back from the concrete jungle of frenetic arcades and flashing lights and you’ll find yourself in a world of tranquil backstreets and parks where ancient shrines and temples are the focus of a highly-civilised community life. Tradition is treasured despite the futuristic facade. The people are perfectionists and are strict in their devotion to social rules (almost to the point of being robotic), and are so respectful of others that they wear face masks to protect those nearby from illness.
One minute you could be shopping for the latest electronics in the inner-city circus, the next relaxing in an outdoor hot-spring reveling in the calm. But regardless of your preference, Tokyo has enough variety, abundant energy, and charm to suit everyone.
By Abbey Stirling/MOLI -
Havana: Crumbling Character & Classic Cars
18.Jan.08, 07:08 EST
The lithe bodies of limber locals and rigid tourists gyrate in Cuba’s capital, from the crooked colonial streets to the pulsating dance floors of salsa clubs.
Bongo drums pound pavements lined with paint-peeled architecture and vintage Chevrolets. Rum-induced revellers free themselves to the rhythms of rumba, rock, jazz, and hip hop.
Havana is a city where music oozes from every pore. It ambles along coastal esplanades and streets brimming with bars and tango houses. The heady scent of minted Mojitos and hand-rolled cigars fills the air as spontaneous street-side groovers jive along to the seductive soundtrack of a swinging city.
Music is the lifeblood of Cuba. Dance floors echo the rhythms of world-famous moves such as rumba, mambo, cha-cha, and salsa. And nowhere more so than in Havana, the home of two famous clubs: Havana and Buena Vista. The former being the world-favoured, sweet flavoured dark rum; the latter a remarkable group which resurrected the music of a classic era through a documentary and album called the Buena Vista Social Club.
The Grammy-award winning self-titled album, which became a world-wide phenomenon, featured musical legends Ibrahim Ferrer and Eliades Ochoa, and wielded an extraordinary resurgence of traditional Cuban music in the West. Havana’s enigmatic allure lies not only in its unparalleled musical heritage, but in the streets from which its home-grown talent is born. The city is a mosaic of glorious Spanish colonial architecture and streamlined American cars from the ‘50s.
There’s the rough, faded glory of the Malecón seafront promenade, and the time-warped weatherworn terraces of Habana Vieja, with architectural splendours dating back to the 16th century. Time seems to have stood still here, and Cuba appears mostly unaffected by the rat-race pace of modernisation, a reminder of the isolation the country endured from the Western world for over 30 years.
The impassioned fire which burns in this vibrant city is undoubtedly fuelled by years of political hardship, of forced migration, food rationing, enslavement, war, and colonisation.
It’s difficult to visit this country - which is so inextricably bound up with its politics - and not feel empowered and inspired by the history which helped shape it. Cuba has emerged from one of the twentieth century’s longest surviving revolutions, from a chronic economic crisis and a crippling US trade embargo to become one of the world’s most compelling and colourful destinations.
More than just another island paradise, Cuba burst back on to the international tourist scene in the ‘90s with a vengeance, and currently trades with almost every nation in the world, including the US.
In 2000, the US Congress approved a law allowing for the sale of American food and agricultural products to Cuba, and after Hurricane Michelle in 2001 destroyed much of Cuba's crops, Havana began importing American products. US trade with the island has since averaged $300 million a year, and the country today is characterised as one of the Caribbean’s major tourist destinations.
Fidel Castro and Ché Guevara’s revolution curbed the debauched excesses of the 1950s and encouraged the arts to develop. Now, five decades later, the country is finally succumbing to global tourism. Newly erected high-rise hotels, department stores, and resorts find their place amongst the awe-inspiring churches, museums, galleries, and memorials of yesteryear.
Restoration projects have returned some of the oldest colonial buildings to their original splendour. Streets graced with grand facades, barred windows and cobbled sidewalks now embrace modern hallmarks of the new Havana.
Relaxing in open doorways, Cubans chat, play dominos on the kerb, dance in the streets or sell popular ham and cheese sandwiches, or ice-creams from the makeshift store-fronts of their homes.
The atmosphere is pleasantly upbeat, and the people are outgoing and hospitable.
Naturally foreign currency is welcomed, and likewise are the foreigners. But the favourable treatment of tourists by the local police is sometimes difficult to digest. Yet the Cubans bear little grudge, openly inviting travellers into their homes, known as "casas particulares" or "paladeres".
"Casas particulares" are privately-run licensed guest houses whereby proprietors rent rooms from their home. It’s an ideal way to gain an insight into the way locals live and give something back to the people, and not into the pockets of the hotel honchos.
"Paladares" are licensed, family-run restaurants which dish up local grub, beer, soft drinks, and coffee, along with a more enticing repertoire of industrial-strength cocktails. Havana is no gastronomic utopia, but dining in someone’s home can be one of the most culturally enriching experiences of any trip.
Havana works its magic slowly and subtly, and doesn’t jump out at you with lights blaring, tour guides beckoning, and distasteful 18-30 groups tainting its beauty. This is a destination for the sophisticated, cultured globe-trotter, and it should be sampled before the communist stronghold changes.
Havana has inspired more prose throughout the centuries than any other Caribbean city. Ernest Hemingway resided here for his final 22 years. He said in terms of beauty, only Venice and Paris surpassed Havana's charm. And walking the streets, or the nearby satin-sanded beaches, you can see why. This enchanting city will sweep even the most unsentimental traveller off their feet.
By Abbey Stirling/MOLI -
Heights of the Himalaya
15.Jan.08, 09:39 EST
Enrique Iglesias is the last person you’d expect to hear belting out pop tunes in the remote, terraced terrain of the Himalaya 2,000 metres above sea level. From a crackling transistor radio his latest track echoes through the rippled rice valleys and subtropical jungle in an unaffected hilltop village. The sounds of the Western world fuse with the distant beat of tribal drumming, and the greatest snowy peaks on earth sit above the clouds like the mystical city of Shangri-La.
Here, in the winding valleys landlocked between India and Tibet, sits eight of the world's ten highest mountains. The supreme summit of them all, Mount Everest, well exceeds 8000 metres and overlooks turbulent rivers, rhododendron forests, and countryside scattered with Hindu and Buddhist temples, shrines, and monasteries.
The kingdom of Nepal has a landscape every bit as diverse as its culture. A melting pot of a dozen major ethnic groups, speaking as many as fifty languages and dialects, coexist in this narrow, jumbled buffer state. More than eighty percent of Nepal’s 23 million inhabitants live off the land in medieval villages reminiscent of a Braveheart film set, and whether you're trekking or biking through the predominantly rural land, simply sampling this lifestyle is perhaps the greatest pleasure of all.
The most rewarding way to experience Nepal's unbeatable combination of natural beauty and cultural riches is to discover the beaten trails or virgin track on foot. Anyone with the spirit for adventure to explore the exotic will enjoy the thrills of trekking in Nepal. The season spans from October through to May, and the region offers some of the most spectacular hikes in the world, with friendly guides to boot.
Anyone visiting Nepal for its natural beauty is likely to be disillusioned by Kathmandu, nevertheless this complex and eccentric capital is likely to be your first port of call. Though its population barely tops 700,000, it is the country’s largest and most cosmopolitan city, with unique architecture, shantytowns, hellish traffic jams, five-star tourist resorts, and heaving bazaars.
Sacred cows and holy men roam the urban streets. Muttered chants and esoteric tantric hymns sweep you along crooked, timeworn streets flanked by irregular, multi-roofed pagodas, stupas and stone sculptures, and into rooms cluttered with horror-eyed masks and Tibetan carpets. The city hasn't abandoned its traditional identity, but the rapid pace of change has produced an intense and extravagant morass of chaos and sophistication.
Durbar Square is the natural place to begin sightseeing. Home of the ancient royal palace (durbar) and Kathmandu's "living goddess" it’s studded with splendid architecture and ageless temples.
Thamel too is a major tourist attraction with croissants and confectionary beckoning from bakery windows, and touts flogging tiger balm and hashish to holiday hippies. This is one of the most vibrant parts of town that boasts a vast range of cuisine, shops and hospitality to accommodate all budgets.
One of the world's poorest countries, Nepal is also a more fragile country than most and it suffers from many of the pangs and uncertainties of the developing world.
The Maoist insurgency has cost Nepal many lives and millions of dollars in the form of physical infrastructure and properties.
Given that Nepal lies at the intersection of two great gastronomic giants, India and China, the national cuisine is like a fusion of both. Lentils, rice, and curried vegetables play a major role in the dish of the day. On the other hand, the country has adapted famously to Western tastes, markedly evident in Kathmandu's smorgasbord of menus: Mexican, Japanese, or Thai washed down with the locally produced beer or Chang: a Himalayan home brew made from barley.
The exquisite medieval art and architecture of the Kathmandu Valley vividly reflects the artistic ingenuity and the religious tradition of the people. Local crafts and clothes are bought and sold in narrow lanes reeking of incense, spices, and exhaust fumes. Visitors are charmed by the friendliness and hospitality of the Nepali’s and their rich and vibrant culture. It is a land of sublime scenery, time-worn temples, and some of the best walking trails on earth. It's abundant in scenic splendour and cultural treasures, and has long exerted a pull on the Western imagination, making it difficult to dislodge from your memory once you leave.
By Abbey Stirling/MOLI -
India: From Gorakhpur to Goa
13.Jan.08, 11:33 EST
India: The land of chicken korma and karma sutra. A destination for all the senses.
Magicians and fortune tellers amuse colourful pilgrims, wandering sadhus, women in saris, and blokes with proper ‘70s handlebar moustaches. Brahmins seek the gods; and strung-out hippies seek themselves.
The echoes of sitars and veenas ride patchouli-scented airwaves, from thronged bazaars to Hindu temples; and the heat of the days give way to balmy nights in the home of holy water, holy cows, and a holy temple created purely for love. Awww…how could you not like the place?
Err, well, if you’ve never actually visited India before, then Gorakhpur would not be a good place to start. Many a lost and befuddled traveller have found themselves forced onto a bus to Gorakhpur’s putrid quagmire en route to (or from) neighbouring Nepal. But this insignificant speck on the eastern tip of Utter Pradesh is a destination unlikely to stick in your mind for any of the right reasons.
Most globe trotters are lucky enough to fly straight past Gorakhpur on the train, without stopping, completely unaware of what they’re missing: open sewers, plagues of flies, mosquitoes, and cockroaches the size of the Taj Mahal. Nice.
I mean, don’t get me wrong, I’m not a pampered princess who needs to travel in five-star luxury. I consider myself a pretty seasoned traveller, and I don’t mind roughing it. But this place really does cut the mustard when it comes to eye-opening shock tactics. And I’m not just talking a few creepy crawlies and the odd whiff of ammonium.
Perhaps I am being a bit harsh. There might have been a few rose petals I inadvertently skipped over while dodging the sky-diving cockroach aiming straight for my cranium. But first impressions do last. In a land boasting over one billion people, seven union territories, 28 states, the world’s largest film industry, and the man with the earth’s longest fingernails, it’s worth persevering to at least assault the senses. Heck, this is the birthplace of Buddhism, yoga, trigonometry, and hotmail!
So, zoning into a Zen frame of mind, I trudged on toward Delhi no less. If you thrive on pulsating activity, and enjoy delving into convoluted chaos, then this is a good place to start. Sprawling on the banks of the river Yamuna, the capital of India typifies the essence of the country with its diversity. The Mughal and Victorian architecture of Old Delhi contrasts with the modern metropolis of New Delhi, and is an accessible base from which to check out the Himalaya, Varanasi, or Agra. But, if you don’t plan on losing an eye, I wouldn’t recommend a visit during the Diwali Festival of Light (hint: fireworks like cruise missiles).
Further east pilgrims flock to the oldest living city in the world to bathe in the waters of the Ganges: Varanasi. An important centre of Hinduism, and one of the holiest cities in India, Varanasi is an auspicious place to die (perfect, I knew I’d come here for a reason).
Expiring here is believed to purify the soul, and offers release from the cycle of rebirth. Pious Hindus come here to spend their last days. The Ghats, which line the western bank of the Ganges, are frenetic as women attend to their laundry, holy men meditate, bodies are cremated, children bathe, and men shave and scrub up with soap. All this despite the fact the water is septic and 3000 times over the faecal bacteria limit that is safe for bathing. Never mind.
On that note, I think I need to dry out, so I set off to the desert and Rajasthan: the Land of Kings. This state is an exotic fantasyland with its medieval forts and elaborate palaces which all vividly testify to the history of the princely state.
Set in the heart of the Thar Desert you can visit the blue city (Jodphur), the pink city (Jaipur), or the gold city (Jaisalmer): where, like I did for three days, you can stay in an ancient fort which looks like a giant sandcastle.
You can also visit the Lake Palace Hotel in Udaipur where the Bond flick Octopussy was filmed. There’s camel trekking and ornately carved temples. Or if you’re not feeling too adventurous, simply soak up the very distinctive nomadic desert lifestyle which is unique to this part of the world.
Heading south, the city formerly known as Bombay (a.k.a Mumbai) teems with more than 15 million people. Today Mumbai is India’s economic powerhouse, and home to Asia’s largest slums. It has the glamour of Bollywood cinema, cricket on the weekends, and red double-decker buses. But the shantytowns are pretty deplorable, and they stretch on for miles. The city is, in most parts, squalid, but with a bizarre Victorian backdrop reminiscent of 19th century England. The city is fuelled simultaneously by entrepreneurial energy and a seedy undercurrent, and this strange charisma makes it all the more intriguing.
Finally, no trip to India would be complete without paying tribute to Goa. The former Portuguese enclave that remains quite distinct from the rest of the country.
The prevalence of Roman Catholicism and its obvious European influence makes Goa seem more accessible to the Westerner, which may or may not be a good thing, depending on your idea of escapism. But the people of Goa are definitely more liberal-minded than elsewhere in the country, and it’s perhaps because of this that the area attracts so many free spirits.
The beaches are picture-book perfect (mind the wandering holy cows) with white sands, coconut palms, and a turquoise sea. Colva offers a place of quiet repose while Calangute’s party scene, Anjuna’s giant market, and Palolem’s tree huts all add to the allure of this divine little coastal gem.
India for me was a ‘character-building’ experience, and only one word can really sum up the place: diverse.
It’s home alike to the time-honoured traditional type, and the sophisticated urbanite. It is a land as vast as it is congested, where elephants live amicably with the internet, and colourful saris are cleaned in squalid sewer water. Cows and cars co-exist on the streets, and fishermen fashion simple fishing boats in a centuries-old tradition, while the packaged holiday crew flock for all-night dance parties and all-year-round sun. I won’t completely rule out returning to India, but if I don’t, I know one thing: nothing will ever quite compare.
By Abbey Stirling/MOLI -
Cambodia: Khmer Kingdom
16.Oct.07, 05:10 EDT
Light intersects corridors, and ambles about the sprawling courtyards of stone ruins, and twisting trees. It descends from above and beyond the towering jungle onto the central shrine, and from somewhere the high-pitched sound of what can only be some kind of frog or bird pierces the air.
Eclipsed by the hot sun, Ta Prohm is hidden beneath a dense rainforest canopy, a temple ravaged by weather, war, and looters. The overgrown forest embraces the ruins with tangled roots, and knotted limbs. The beauty of this scene is astounding. Daylight filters through the leaves cloaking Ta Prohm in a green pall. Thankfully Cambodia opened its doors to foreigners again in 1998, because to step for a short while into a realm of such grandeur, such unrestrained power that the mind and soul are intoxicated with inspiration, is an experience one cannot miss.
Ta Prohm is one of 100 or so temples of Angkor, the spiritual and cultural core of the Kingdom of Cambodia. It is probably more recognisable to some as the temple in Lara Croft’s fantasy flick Tombraider. But apart from being a film prop it is one of humankinds most astonishing and enduring architectural achievements.
Experiencing something of a revival, Cambodia is at the forefront of any globe-trotters calendar, and is the place to be in Asia right now. No longer Asia’s best kept secret the country in the heart of Indochina has something unique that none of its neighbours (Thailand, Laos, and Vietnam) can rival. But as well as being home to one of the structural wonders of the world, Cambodia has so much more to offer. There are long empty beaches of fringed palms and squeaky white sand, the lively capital Phnom Penh, the mighty Mekong River, and the people. Khmers have endured years of civil war and political unrest, but still manage to be as happy and hospitable as one could wish their hosts to be.
The main base from which to see Angkor is Siem Reap, a small colonial town just north of Southeast Asia’s largest lake, Tonle Sap. There are two ways to get to Siem Reap: drive or fly. Now anyone with experience of Cambodia’s er…roads, would recommend the latter. Picture the most pothole-ridden BMX track you can imagine, times that by 100, and envisage enduring an 11 hour journey across its sunken trenches in 30 degree (celsius) heat. The threat of (up to six million) landmines along roadsides and off the beaten track pose a danger when desperate for a toilet stop, so when in doubt, fly out.
After Angkor was abandoned in the mid 15th century, Phnom Penh became the capital of Cambodia. Founded alongside the Tonle Sap and Bassac rivers, you’ll find it by heading south along the shabby roads and long stretches of haphazardly sown paddy. In Phnom Penh anything goes, and you can always find something to satisfy your idea of a good time. This is a city of extremes and excess, where even crossing the road can be an exhilarating experience.
If you’re so inclined make a trip to Happy Herb’s Italian pizzeria in the centre of town, where you can order a ‘happy’ marijuana pizza, and spend the days in a Cambodian haze. Raw and edgy it’s not everyone’s cup of tea, but you can’t help but be captivated by the city’s craziness.
Crumbling colonial French architecture is reminiscent of the streets of Cuba; decaying, reaping in history, and full of character. The mighty Mekong River makes its presence known. It spills through the city creating a scenic route laden with lively nightlife, and a boulevard of sprawling restaurants. You can stay in a guest house over looking the beautiful lake which hosts some mind-blowing sunsets. Visit markets, the historic Killing Fields or the Royal Palace. Chaotic and charismatic, Phnom Penh is where the action’s at.
Sihanoukville on the other hand is serene and subdued. Just two hours drive south of bustling Phnom Penh, this seaside town is popular on weekends with visitors from the big smoke. Not as developed as neighbouring Thailand's beaches, Sihanoukville is the perfect escape during the week when you can still have pretty much a whole coastline to yourself.
Cambodia has tremendous potential as a travel destination, and now is the perfect time to witness this re-birth of a 13 million strong nation before it becomes just another stop on the Asian circuit. 390,000 tourists ventured into the country in the first six months of 2002, a 25 percent increase on the number recorded the previous year.
You can spend the days delightfully getting lost in Angkor Wat, taking in the thousands of statues, and bas relief carvings, and finding your way through its labyrinthine passageways. Baby monkeys and their parents play on either side of the roads: a whirlpool of mopeds, tuk tuks, and Toyota Camry’s. Everything you’ve learnt about road safety goes out the window. You’re surrounded by children selling their wares: crisp cockroaches, and charcoaled Tarantulas. There is a sense of calm. Buddha is everywhere, watching over, and the people celebrate his presence with the offering of incense. In a country that was once disowned by the rest of the world, and cut off from most international aid and support, there is now a feeling of unmistakable optimism in the air.
By Abbey Stirling/MOLI
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